''0'' Km rodaj hakkında

[Fbc]

Arkadaşlar selam, merak ediyorum;
0 km aracın rodajı oluyor mu ?
Rodajdan sonra gidişi, yakıtı değişiyor mu ?
Nelere dikkat edilmelidir ?
Şuan basıyorum sıkıntı olur mu ?

Miniks'lere de sormuştum onların dediğine kulak verdim, ama genel olarak bir bilgi alayım dedim.

[V.İ.P]

benim bildiğim servis ilk 5000 km aracı çok zorlamayın diyor parçalar birbirine alışması durumu varmış sonrasında motoru açmak için basman gerekiyormuş

[senna]

1000km civarı çok sıkıştırmayın değiştirebiliyorsanız yağını değiştirin sonrasında devam edin normal kullanın derim

[ArMy]

Araç kitapçığında rodaj bilgisi olması lazım..Orda ne diyorsa o..

[Fbc]

Araç kitapçığında rodaj bilgisi olması lazım..Orda ne diyorsa o..

Gerçekten mi ?

[onur_S]

ben ilk 600-700 km çeyrek gazı geçmemeye calısıyorum.yüksek devirde yok.ama ondan sonra uzun yola cıkıp yuksek devir top speed seklinde bundada tek vites.5.vites gidiyorum sonuna kadar sonra hiç frene ellemeyip motor freniyle yavaslatıp asılıyorum tekrar tekrar.bende bişey sorayım?sübapları eğilip yapılan araca rodaj gerekirmi?

[ArMy]

Gerçekten mi ?

Yok yalancıktan..

[Fbc]

Yok yalancıktan..

Şakacı, Bilgisi olan yazsın demiştim neyin nerede yazdığını gayet iyi biliyorum, tecrübe daha önemli benim için.

[ArMy]

Şakacı, Bilgisi olan yazsın demiştim neyin nerede yazdığını gayet iyi biliyorum, tecrübe daha önemli benim için.

Madem öyle aracın marka,model,motor hacmi ve yakıt türünü belirtseydiniz direk tecrübesi olan yazardı..
Cici rodajlar size..

[SkY]

1000km civarı çok sıkıştırmayın değiştirebiliyorsanız yağını değiştirin sonrasında devam edin normal kullanın derim

benimde bildiğim bu şekilde olması gerektiği..aynı zamanda sürekli aynı devirlerde gitmek yerine yavaş yavaş artan bir tempoyla deviri de arttırmak lazım diye hatırlıyorum

[0M42]

Ben motorumu rektifiye ettirdikten sonra rodajımı tamamlarken şu yolu takip ettim ilk 500 km ye kadar maksimum orta devirlerde normal bir kullanımım oldu araçta kalabalık iken çok dik rampalara vurmadım (***** memlekettin rampalı yolu çok) 500 km den sonra 1000 km ye kadar devir bandını arttırdım ve artık rampalara çok fazla takılmamaya başladım ama hep aracın rahat bir şekilde çıkabileceği vites ile çıktım 1000 km den sonra yavaş yavaş asılmaya başladım ve gerisi geldi

[GOKTAN]

ilk 1000 km önemli olan parçaların birbirine alışması için,dip gaz yapmadan gazı yedire yedire her vitesi kullanarak yumuşak bi şeklide kullanmak ve 1000 km de yağ ve filtreleri deiştirip yola devam etmek.....

[KA®ANLIK]

ben ilk 600-700 km çeyrek gazı geçmemeye calısıyorum.yüksek devirde yok.ama ondan sonra uzun yola cıkıp yuksek devir top speed seklinde bundada tek vites.5.vites gidiyorum sonuna kadar sonra hiç frene ellemeyip motor freniyle yavaslatıp asılıyorum tekrar tekrar.bende bişey sorayım?sübapları eğilip yapılan araca rodaj gerekirmi?

Subapları eğilen araca rodaj yapılması gibi bir durum söz konusu değil.
ama yine de ilk 50km fazla kasmassanız aklınızda hiç soru işareti kalmaz

[Kadyr]

valla bız subap yaptırdık bısı demedıler ben normal kullandım yine bı sorun olmadı ama ıcımde pskolojık soyle bı durum vardı lan dıorum nasıl yaptılar acaba sımdı gaza yuklenırsem sorun cıkarmı flan ıcım ıcımı yıyodu

[Sebring]

0 km'de alinmis bir otomobilde rodaji sadece motor olarak dusunmemek gerekir bence.Sanziman,suspansiyon ve frenlerin de birlikte alismasi gerekir diye dusunuyorum.Kendi otomobillerimde ilk 1500 km'de sabit hizlardan,sabit devirlerden,cok hizli vites degistirmelerden hep kacindim.Viraj falan da hic kastirmadim.1500 km sonunda yagini ve yag filtresini degistirdim.0 aldigim hicbir otomobilde de emsalleri arasinda asla performans problemi yasamadim.Kisisel gorusum budur.

[bilalMW]

Rodajda hiç basmıcakmıyız yoksa full gazmı geçiceğiz.Rodajlı ilgili bir döküman vardı bende rodaj denilen şey aslında segmanların tam oturmasıymış ve bunun içinde yanma odasının içinde max. kompresyon ile oldugunu bunun için basmamız gerektiğini belirtiyordu.
Dökümanı koymak isterdim ama masaüstümün mönitörü vefat etti.Dolayısıyla..

[Sinan Koc]

Ben senin yerine koyim,sanırım bundan bahdesiyorsun, buda yazının tamamı

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Here's How To Do It:
There are 3 ways you can break in an engine:

1) on a dyno
2) on the street, or off road (Motocross or Snowmobile.)
3) on the racetrack


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On a Dyno:
Warm the engine up
completely !!

Then, using 4th gear:

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!
Frequently asked Question:

What's a dyno ??

A dyno is a machine in which the bike is strapped on and power is measured.

It can also be used to break in an engine.


NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.

The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.

You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs

[senna]

Ben senin yerine koyim,sanırım bundan bahdesiyorsun, buda yazının tamamı

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Here's How To Do It:
There are 3 ways you can break in an engine:

1) on a dyno
2) on the street, or off road (Motocross or Snowmobile.)
3) on the racetrack


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On a Dyno:
Warm the engine up
completely !!

Then, using 4th gear:

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!
Frequently asked Question:

What's a dyno ??

A dyno is a machine in which the bike is strapped on and power is measured.

It can also be used to break in an engine.


NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.

The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.

You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs

her zaman herkesin alamayacağı bir risk bu tavsiye etmek uygun olmayabilir