Adım adım supercharger montajı

**cem** · 23-12-2007, 23:57

Before you begin, it makes the installation a lot smoother if you remove the hood from the vehicle. There are 2 x 10mm bolts holding the hood in place on each hinge.

Remove the strut tower bar.

Open the gas cap and then remove the banjo bolt from the fuel rail.

Disconnect the fuel retun line and vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator.
In the mean time, drain the oil and the coolant.

Remove the fuel rail by removing the 3 x 10mm bolts holding it down and set it aside. Be sure not to loose any of the o-rings on the injectors. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body.

Disconnect the connectors to the sensors on the manifold and throttle body. It would be wise to label each one before disconnecting. Unbolt the power steering pump from the bracket and move aside.

Begin unbolting the stock intake manifold from the head. There is row of 12mm nuts on the top and a row on the bottom side. The hardest ones are on the underside, however if you move some of the wiring harnesses out of the way, you can get your hand in there and remove all the nuts without crawling underneath the car.

Disconnect the water hose to the head.
It will give you more room to access the lower nuts on the passenger side.

From under the car, remove the intake manifold support bracket. This is the most difficult part of removing the head. Take your time, you can remove 4 of the bolts from under the car, the last one will have to be removed from the top side.
--

The last bolt holding the support bracket can be accessed from the passengerside of the car,
just beneath the throttle body. Once that the bracket is unbolted, you can seperate the manifold from the head.

**cem** · 23-12-2007, 23:58

With the manifold seperated from the head, you can now lift it up and disconnect the remaining hoses on the underside of the intake manifold. Once the manifold is out of the car, you can lift out the intake manifold support bracket.

Now do yourself a favor and walk over to the nearest garbage can and throw the bracket away.
Now you can clean off the old intake manifold gasket. If it doesn't come off in one piece then use a scraper or
putty knife and carefully scrape it off of the head. Be careful not to scratch the head. A new gasket is advised.

Now, carefully disconnect the original coolant line running from the block to the firewall.
Do not squeeze the nipple too hard as it is very soft and will crush easily. Use the new supplied coolant line and reattach.

Now you must extend the intake air temperature connector harness. Cut off the connector about 2" from the end and extend the wires. With the stock manifold off of the motor, go ahead and remove the throttle body and IACV from the manifold. Be careful not to lose the o-ring on the IACV. If damaged, replace it.

Remove the IAT sensor from the stock manifold and install it onto the Jackson manifold. At the same time,
install the pressure sensor, actuator and nipples. Be sure to use some teflon tape on the the threads to avoid vacuum leaks.

Now you can remove the oil filter from the block. This will give you access to the oil cooler (if you car is equipped with one).

You can see some of the lines that run to the oil cooler. Disconnect them from the cooler and remove
the center bolt holding the oil cooler in place.

Now you can lift out the oil cooler and set aside. You will be reinstalling it. At this time,
disconnect the stock fuel return line from the metal line on the firewall.

Reinstall the oil cooler onto the back of the block. However take note of the position of where the upper nipple is. It now has to point at the 9 o'clock position. It originally pointed in the 12 o'clock position. This is vital that it points at the 9 o'clock position for clearance issues. The nipple must also be hoziontal the to floor or pointing slightly upwards, if it doesn't, then carefully bent it by inserting a screwdriver. Using the orignal hose on the oil cooler with the largest radius, reconnect the lower nipple to the main water line.

Here you can see a comparison of the stick alternator pulley and new JRSC pulley that will drive the supercharger. An impact wrench will come in handy to remove the bolt on the alternator for you to swap pulleys.

Now remove the old alternator bracket from the back of the block. You can them side by side with the new JRSC alternator bracket.

**cem** · 23-12-2007, 23:58

Now you will need to slightly bend the powersteering line on the driverside of the car on the fender. Using a long handled hammer or equivelent, push the metal line towards the fender as much as possible. This is necessary to clear the new belts that will drive the supercharger. With that done, you can now install the new pulley bracket to the back of the block.

Now you will have to relocate the main engine harness. Move it as close as possible to the block. Run the engine harness underneath the PCV line. Again this is vital for clearance issues.

Reconnect the water temperature sensor. Then remove the vacuum canister from the underside of the stock intake manifold. You will need to remove the solenoid.

With the solenoid removed, reconnect it to the harness and zip tie it securely to the engine harness. Now remove the fuel filter from the firewall.

Remove the throttle cable bracket from the firewall. This will give you more room to install the JRSC manifold and charger in the following steps. You can see here the JRSC manifold and a new intake gasket. It is good idea to coat the gasket with a little oil on both sides, this will allow you to reuse the gasket in the future if you ever need to take if off again. It will prevent the gasket from sticking to the manifold or head.

Put the new intake gasket onto the head and lower the JRSC manifold into place. The manual says to install the charger after the manifold is in place, however we decided it was easier to lay the charger down first and then install the manifold.

Using the original nuts, bolt the manifold to the head. Be sure you do not drop anything down the injector holes. With the charger already underneath the manifold. Use some sealant on the mating surface of the charger and the manifold and have someone hold it in place while you carefully bolt the charger to the manifold through the access holes on the top of the manifold. Be careful not to drop anything inside.

With the charger in place, you can now install the caps that fill the holes on the top of the manifold. You some silcone sealant on the threads to avoid vacuum leaks. Then reinstall the injectors and fuel rail. Be sure to apply a light coat of oil on the o-rings before inserting the injectors into the manifold.

Depending on the year of your car, you may need to use a Tee fitting on the vacuum source from the manifold to run the PCV valve. Remove the purve control solenoid from the stock manifold and bolt it to the JRSC manifold. Double check that nothing is binding or pinched.

Use the new supplied spacers on the fuel rail before bolting it down.
As with the intake gasket, apply a light coat of oil on the throttle body gasket.

**cem** · 23-12-2007, 23:58

Bolt the throttle body to the new manifold and bolt the IACV to the back side, be sure you didn't lose the o-ring on the IACV. You can now reinstall the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel rail by using the supplied JRSC adapter flange.

When bolting the FPR to the JRSC adapater, be sure you have the o-ring properly seated.

We opted to use a Vortech modified FPR on this install. However, bolting it on is exactly the same as the stock unit. Make sure the when you push the rear engine harness towards the block, that your run the passenger side of the harness under the water hose that connects the head to the water neck. This will help hold the engine harness in its new location.

Double check the tensioner on the JRSC pulley and reconnect the fuel line to the fuel rail. Be sure all the crush washers are in place.

Go ahead and reinstall the intake.
Make sure the alternator belt is in place correctly and properly tensioned. You can now lower the car.

Reinstall the power steer pump and belt. Be sure it is tensioned properly as well.

Now go ahead and install the JRSC FMU. The fuel return line that you replaced earlier on the firewall connects to the outer nipple while a new fuel line goes from the center nipple to the FPR on the fuel rail. Securely bolt the FMU to a suitable location on the firewall. Connect a vacuum line from the manifold to the FPR.

Connect another vacuum line from the manifold to the JRSC FMU. You can tee off this line for additional boost sensing equipment such as a boost gauge.

**cem** · 23-12-2007, 23:58

Set the ignition timing to 8-10deg BTC and remove the rear seats to install the new high flow fuel pump.

Remove the cover on the fuel pump to expose to original unit. Unbolt it from the frame and remove the original cap and pump assembly.

Disconnect the fuel line from the pump and remove the old pump from the assembly. Install the new pump. We used a Walbro high flow unit.

The new pump will bolt right in without modification. Replace into the fuel tank and reinstall the cover and seats. Your done!

**Serencebey** · 15-05-2009, 12:25

Chargerın kasnagının sarj dinamosuna baglandıgı yerı unutmuslar

**senna** · 15-05-2009, 15:57

Serencebey´isimli üyeden Alıntı

Chargerın kasnagının sarj dinamosuna baglandıgı yerı unutmuslar

buyur?

......

**Serencebey** · 15-05-2009, 16:43

senna´isimli üyeden Alıntı

buyur?......

diorumki chargeri donduren kasnak varya hani alternatore baglanıor. onun montaj fotoları yok dıorum

**senna** · 15-05-2009, 16:46

Serencebey´isimli üyeden Alıntı

diorumki chargeri donduren kasnak varya hani alternatore baglanıor. onun montaj fotoları yok dıorum

olsun bişi olmaz

**sehzade** · 15-05-2009, 21:53

çok teşekkürler gayet acıkalyıcı fotolar

**Eriador** · 18-05-2009, 00:29

Eyw. Cemo çok güzel konu

**capri** · 24-05-2009, 20:26

yakında takacağım bu sistem hakkında bikaç sorum olacak...bilenler yazsın lütfen...

1-) eger stok map sensörünü kullanırsak bunu gaz kelebeği üzerinden söküp manifolda takmamız gerekir, doğru mu?
2-) bu üzerinde gergi kasnakları bulunan düzenek nasıl takılıyor resimlerde geçmemiş hiç?
3-) frene giden hortumun dirseğinin yanındaki müşir ben de yok, o ne işe yarar?

**Ddrome** · 29-10-2009, 02:10

1. map sensörünün en fazla kaç psi'da ölçüm yapabileceğine ve kullanacağın chargerin bu son psi'a nekadar uyumlu olduğuna göre değişen bir durum. map'ın chargerin çektiği havayı okuyamaması durumunda. yerin bi önemi olurmu bilmiyorum ama en doğru şey daha yüksek güçteki hava akımlarını okuyabilen bir sensörle değiştirilmesi olur.

diğer soruları hondacı arkadaşlar cevaplarlarsa daha mantıklı olur sanırım

zira son sorun hakkında hiç bir fikrim yok :d saygılar

**Honda Type_R** · 30-10-2009, 14:30

cok gusel bir uygulama olmus sorunsuz bir sekilde kullanmak nasip olur insallah

**UĞUR YUMAK** · 18-03-2010, 21:24

Süper charger satan kimse varmı sitede yada fiyatları hakkında bilgisi olan ?

**UĞUR YUMAK** · 19-03-2010, 09:55

Süper charger satan kimse varmı sitede yada fiyatları hakkında bilgisi olan ?

**erdemx** · 19-03-2010, 10:33

paylaşım için çok teşekkürler

**aRas** · 30-03-2010, 20:32

Güzel bir uygulama yapmışlar.
Teşekkürler,emeğine sağlık.

**k20** · 01-04-2010, 22:15

sc takasım geldi...

23-12-2007, 23:58	#2
cem TechTurkey Mesajlar: 7.245 Üyelik Tarihi: Nov 2005 Yaş: 27 Şehir: Gotham City	With the manifold seperated from the head, you can now lift it up and disconnect the remaining hoses on the underside of the intake manifold. Once the manifold is out of the car, you can lift out the intake manifold support bracket. Now do yourself a favor and walk over to the nearest garbage can and throw the bracket away. Now you can clean off the old intake manifold gasket. If it doesn't come off in one piece then use a scraper or putty knife and carefully scrape it off of the head. Be careful not to scratch the head. A new gasket is advised. Now, carefully disconnect the original coolant line running from the block to the firewall. Do not squeeze the nipple too hard as it is very soft and will crush easily. Use the new supplied coolant line and reattach. Now you must extend the intake air temperature connector harness. Cut off the connector about 2" from the end and extend the wires. With the stock manifold off of the motor, go ahead and remove the throttle body and IACV from the manifold. Be careful not to lose the o-ring on the IACV. If damaged, replace it. Remove the IAT sensor from the stock manifold and install it onto the Jackson manifold. At the same time, install the pressure sensor, actuator and nipples. Be sure to use some teflon tape on the the threads to avoid vacuum leaks. Now you can remove the oil filter from the block. This will give you access to the oil cooler (if you car is equipped with one). You can see some of the lines that run to the oil cooler. Disconnect them from the cooler and remove the center bolt holding the oil cooler in place. Now you can lift out the oil cooler and set aside. You will be reinstalling it. At this time, disconnect the stock fuel return line from the metal line on the firewall. Reinstall the oil cooler onto the back of the block. However take note of the position of where the upper nipple is. It now has to point at the 9 o'clock position. It originally pointed in the 12 o'clock position. This is vital that it points at the 9 o'clock position for clearance issues. The nipple must also be hoziontal the to floor or pointing slightly upwards, if it doesn't, then carefully bent it by inserting a screwdriver. Using the orignal hose on the oil cooler with the largest radius, reconnect the lower nipple to the main water line. Here you can see a comparison of the stick alternator pulley and new JRSC pulley that will drive the supercharger. An impact wrench will come in handy to remove the bolt on the alternator for you to swap pulleys. Now remove the old alternator bracket from the back of the block. You can them side by side with the new JRSC alternator bracket. Techturkey.com Post 2 __________________________________ "If you aren't breaking parts on your car, you aren't going fast enough" "If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of, one corner to the next, you finally have enough horsepower"

23-12-2007, 23:58	#3
cem TechTurkey Mesajlar: 7.245 Üyelik Tarihi: Nov 2005 Yaş: 27 Şehir: Gotham City	Now you will need to slightly bend the powersteering line on the driverside of the car on the fender. Using a long handled hammer or equivelent, push the metal line towards the fender as much as possible. This is necessary to clear the new belts that will drive the supercharger. With that done, you can now install the new pulley bracket to the back of the block. Now you will have to relocate the main engine harness. Move it as close as possible to the block. Run the engine harness underneath the PCV line. Again this is vital for clearance issues. Reconnect the water temperature sensor. Then remove the vacuum canister from the underside of the stock intake manifold. You will need to remove the solenoid. With the solenoid removed, reconnect it to the harness and zip tie it securely to the engine harness. Now remove the fuel filter from the firewall. Remove the throttle cable bracket from the firewall. This will give you more room to install the JRSC manifold and charger in the following steps. You can see here the JRSC manifold and a new intake gasket. It is good idea to coat the gasket with a little oil on both sides, this will allow you to reuse the gasket in the future if you ever need to take if off again. It will prevent the gasket from sticking to the manifold or head. Put the new intake gasket onto the head and lower the JRSC manifold into place. The manual says to install the charger after the manifold is in place, however we decided it was easier to lay the charger down first and then install the manifold. Using the original nuts, bolt the manifold to the head. Be sure you do not drop anything down the injector holes. With the charger already underneath the manifold. Use some sealant on the mating surface of the charger and the manifold and have someone hold it in place while you carefully bolt the charger to the manifold through the access holes on the top of the manifold. Be careful not to drop anything inside. With the charger in place, you can now install the caps that fill the holes on the top of the manifold. You some silcone sealant on the threads to avoid vacuum leaks. Then reinstall the injectors and fuel rail. Be sure to apply a light coat of oil on the o-rings before inserting the injectors into the manifold. Depending on the year of your car, you may need to use a Tee fitting on the vacuum source from the manifold to run the PCV valve. Remove the purve control solenoid from the stock manifold and bolt it to the JRSC manifold. Double check that nothing is binding or pinched. Use the new supplied spacers on the fuel rail before bolting it down. As with the intake gasket, apply a light coat of oil on the throttle body gasket. Techturkey.com Post 3 __________________________________ "If you aren't breaking parts on your car, you aren't going fast enough" "If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of, one corner to the next, you finally have enough horsepower"

23-12-2007, 23:58	#4
cem TechTurkey Mesajlar: 7.245 Üyelik Tarihi: Nov 2005 Yaş: 27 Şehir: Gotham City	Bolt the throttle body to the new manifold and bolt the IACV to the back side, be sure you didn't lose the o-ring on the IACV. You can now reinstall the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel rail by using the supplied JRSC adapter flange. When bolting the FPR to the JRSC adapater, be sure you have the o-ring properly seated. We opted to use a Vortech modified FPR on this install. However, bolting it on is exactly the same as the stock unit. Make sure the when you push the rear engine harness towards the block, that your run the passenger side of the harness under the water hose that connects the head to the water neck. This will help hold the engine harness in its new location. Double check the tensioner on the JRSC pulley and reconnect the fuel line to the fuel rail. Be sure all the crush washers are in place. Go ahead and reinstall the intake. Make sure the alternator belt is in place correctly and properly tensioned. You can now lower the car. Reinstall the power steer pump and belt. Be sure it is tensioned properly as well. Now go ahead and install the JRSC FMU. The fuel return line that you replaced earlier on the firewall connects to the outer nipple while a new fuel line goes from the center nipple to the FPR on the fuel rail. Securely bolt the FMU to a suitable location on the firewall. Connect a vacuum line from the manifold to the FPR. Connect another vacuum line from the manifold to the JRSC FMU. You can tee off this line for additional boost sensing equipment such as a boost gauge. Techturkey.com Post 4 __________________________________ "If you aren't breaking parts on your car, you aren't going fast enough" "If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of, one corner to the next, you finally have enough horsepower"

23-12-2007, 23:58	#5
cem TechTurkey Mesajlar: 7.245 Üyelik Tarihi: Nov 2005 Yaş: 27 Şehir: Gotham City	Set the ignition timing to 8-10deg BTC and remove the rear seats to install the new high flow fuel pump. Remove the cover on the fuel pump to expose to original unit. Unbolt it from the frame and remove the original cap and pump assembly. Disconnect the fuel line from the pump and remove the old pump from the assembly. Install the new pump. We used a Walbro high flow unit. The new pump will bolt right in without modification. Replace into the fuel tank and reinstall the cover and seats. Your done! Techturkey.com Post 5 __________________________________ "If you aren't breaking parts on your car, you aren't going fast enough" "If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of, one corner to the next, you finally have enough horsepower"

15-05-2009, 12:25	#6
Serencebey Mesajlar: 4.636 Üyelik Tarihi: May 2006 Şehir: Izmir Otomobil: Syncro Gosy	Chargerın kasnagının sarj dinamosuna baglandıgı yerı unutmuslar Techturkey.com Post 6 __________________________________ Çok fena, çok pratik, çok atik ve teknolojik ithalatoperasyonatör

15-05-2009, 21:53	#10
sehzade Mesajlar: 51 Üyelik Tarihi: Oct 2007 Yaş: 27 Şehir: konya Otomobil: honda civic	çok teşekkürler gayet acıkalyıcı fotolar Techturkey.com Post 10

18-05-2009, 00:29	#11
Eriador Mesajlar: 6.718 Üyelik Tarihi: Nov 2005 Yaş: 26 Şehir: Orlando Otomobil: -	Eyw. Cemo çok güzel konu Techturkey.com Post 11 __________________________________ ...::: Çirkin kadın yoktur , az Votka vardır derler... Geçiniz ! Çirkin kadın vardır, midesiz erkekte çoktur. Votkaya bok atip durmayalim onunda bir suçu yoktur :::...

24-05-2009, 20:26	#12
capri Mesajlar: 394 Üyelik Tarihi: Apr 2008 Yaş: 29 Şehir: türkiye/ankara Otomobil: '00 impreza gt , '08 gsx 650f	yakında takacağım bu sistem hakkında bikaç sorum olacak...bilenler yazsın lütfen... 1-) eger stok map sensörünü kullanırsak bunu gaz kelebeği üzerinden söküp manifolda takmamız gerekir, doğru mu? 2-) bu üzerinde gergi kasnakları bulunan düzenek nasıl takılıyor resimlerde geçmemiş hiç? 3-) frene giden hortumun dirseğinin yanındaki müşir ben de yok, o ne işe yarar? Techturkey.com Post 12 __________________________________ subi & suzi

29-10-2009, 02:10	#13
Ddrome Mesajlar: 139 Üyelik Tarihi: Oct 2009 Şehir: Adana Otomobil: Eclipse / Sorento	1. map sensörünün en fazla kaç psi'da ölçüm yapabileceğine ve kullanacağın chargerin bu son psi'a nekadar uyumlu olduğuna göre değişen bir durum. map'ın chargerin çektiği havayı okuyamaması durumunda. yerin bi önemi olurmu bilmiyorum ama en doğru şey daha yüksek güçteki hava akımlarını okuyabilen bir sensörle değiştirilmesi olur. diğer soruları hondacı arkadaşlar cevaplarlarsa daha mantıklı olur sanırım zira son sorun hakkında hiç bir fikrim yok :d saygılar Techturkey.com Post 13

30-10-2009, 14:30	#14
Honda Type_R Mesajlar: 449 Üyelik Tarihi: Oct 2009 Yaş: 29 Şehir: Istanbul Otomobil: 05 TypeR-11 Qashqai	cok gusel bir uygulama olmus sorunsuz bir sekilde kullanmak nasip olur insallah Techturkey.com Post 14

18-03-2010, 21:24	#15
UĞUR YUMAK Mesajlar: 847 Üyelik Tarihi: Nov 2009 Şehir: 35 Otomobil: GRA GC	Süper charger satan kimse varmı sitede yada fiyatları hakkında bilgisi olan ? Techturkey.com Post 15 __________________________________ Engine Type: EJ20G

19-03-2010, 09:55	#16
UĞUR YUMAK Mesajlar: 847 Üyelik Tarihi: Nov 2009 Şehir: 35 Otomobil: GRA GC	Süper charger satan kimse varmı sitede yada fiyatları hakkında bilgisi olan ? Techturkey.com Post 16 __________________________________ Engine Type: EJ20G

19-03-2010, 10:33	#17
erdemx Mesajlar: 154 Üyelik Tarihi: Aug 2009 Yaş: 31 Şehir: istanbul Otomobil: CRX	paylaşım için çok teşekkürler Techturkey.com Post 17

30-03-2010, 20:32	#18
aRas Mesajlar: 25 Üyelik Tarihi: Aug 2009 Yaş: 18 Şehir: İstabul Otomobil: Yok	Güzel bir uygulama yapmışlar. Teşekkürler,emeğine sağlık. Techturkey.com Post 18

01-04-2010, 22:15	#19
k20 Mesajlar: 176 Üyelik Tarihi: Feb 2009 Yaş: 30 Şehir: istanbul Otomobil: TSI,quattro,VTEC	sc takasım geldi... Techturkey.com Post 19 __________________________________

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