k20 swap AE111 Levin

[levent]

I thought I’d post up some pics of what I’m upto.
The car is a Toyota trueno ae111 with a 4AGE 20v. its an awesome car, but it lacks power without pouring £££££’s to build a hasselgren type engine. So I opted for an engine swap.


Here’s some pics to show my progress.

Usual pic of car up on ramp, ready for a heart transplant.



Centre console removed for ecu and shifter removal.



Heart coming out. Farewell 4age. You did your job well.



out it comes. Still beating…….



Here’s a pic of me lifting the new engine with my left arm whilst moving at superman speeds to get the engine in. ☺






so, now with the engine ‘in’. it was time to get the engine to sit where I wanted it.
The criteria was:
• Sit the engine as far back as possible to reduce weight over the front of the nose.
• Sit the engine as low as possible in the bay to lower the centre of gravity.
• Give enough room at the back for the exhaust manifold.
• Give enough room at the front for the radiator.
• Sit the engine equidistance from left to right so changing g/boxes and aux belts are simple.

With that criteria met, or so I thought, after 2 hours of jigging it into place. It turns out the engine sat too high for my liking. I wanted it lower. So the first chassis mod took place.
Take 1 stock subframe brace.




add sparks.



add 5mm sheet metal for bracing



and voila!!



now with the lower brace bolted back into place, it was time to reposition the engine again.

Here’s the outcome.
Much lower than the bonnet line.



and here’s a frontal shot of where it will live.




engine level with the chassis. Perfect placement!!



with this swap, I didn’t wanna just shoehorn the k20 in and leave it as that.
The 1 thing I like about the ae111 is the fact that it is a competent street car which has a lot of creature comforts which make it a pleasure to drive. 2 of them being a/c and p/s. I wasn’t going to lose these just for more power. So in order to keep them, I would need to replumb the a/c lines, and also get a dc5 p/s pump.


Here’s one a made earlier.



what worried me at first was the sheer size of the p/s pump and the bonnet line. Once installed, and I shut the bonnet carefully. It turns out there is about 10mm of clearance between the two. Happy days.



With that all done, it was time to start getting the engine mounted.

First i’d start with the gearbox mount. So I butchered up an oem polyfilled mount, and I was left with just the centre section.



slowly, adding 5mm steel sheet into specific places, we were able to create a mount which bolted upto the original bolt holes.



Now for the drivers’ side mount. I decided to use a Hasport k swap mount as it made doing this side a lot easier.



again, this mount bracket would be bolt in. so I didn’t have to weld anything onto the chassis and I can revert it back to 4age if I decided to.

I started off with the base plate, cut, drilled, bent and bolted down.




next was the uprights




then it was time to box it up



here’s some pics of the mounts out of the car prior to being finished.





pics of the gearbox side mount





original vs new mount




pics of the gussets being made for the passenger mount



with the engine now supported, it was time for the front and rear tq mounts.


I decided to use the oem Honda mounts with polyfill, as they were bigger and stronger than the 4age mounts.

Front tq mount fitted



bracket being bolted up to make sure it fits





all welded up





time for the rear mount. It isn’t complete yet, but here’s the rear bracket going on a diet so it will fit.



how the engine site with just the 2 main mounts in

[levent]

Time for the next bit. Shifter and linkage.

As with any swap, you should use the parts that are related to the engine, instead of trying to make the original parts fit. So I sourced a dc5 shifter box and linkage to complete this part of the job.

Here’s the ae111 (trd) shifter next to the dc5 shifter. Huge difference in size.



Because the shifter differ in length and width, it would not bolt straight into the chassis, so an adapter plate had to be fabbed up. Some more 5mm steel plate soon sorted that out.



ae111 shifter



dc5 shifter



with that in, I was able to route the cables through the existing holes in the firewall and bolt it all up.





finally finished the rear engine mount. I ended up using the Toyota rear mount and modified the Honda bracket to fit.








I offered up some steel tubing to check out the axle angle and here’s the result. Very shallow angle, looks promising.





As for making the shafts fit the swap, I will be using ep3 inner cv’s, resplined and shortened ep3 shafts, and Toyota outer cv’s.



Honda-left Toyota-right



the Honda shaft measures 25mm, Toyota 23.4mm
Honda 32 splines, Toyota 30 splines.



Time to tackle the cooling and heating system.
At first I wanted to retain the oem ae111 radiator, but after looking at the in/out ports, it wasn’t feasible due to the location of the k20 thermostat and the front torque mount.

So I got both the ep3 and ae111 rads next to each other to compare dimensions.

Here’s the results

Ep3 on left, ae111 on right



The height and the widths were the same. The benefit of using the ep3 rad was the thickness = better cooling.




I the only thing I now have to sort out is the mounting and bolting points, that won’t be difficult at all.



As for the heater hoses, all I had to do was mix and match the k20 and 4age hoses.

All done



next up for the power steering.
The HP side of the pas system was made up by combining both the dc5 lines and the ae111 lines. As for the LP return side, I retained the ae111 reservoir and hose aswell. The hose isn’t a 100% fit, so I will be getting a replacement hose soon.



oh, and here’s a pic of the dc5 shifter box fitted in the car.



here's a teaser for whats to come

[levent]

Time for a Christmas update. My driveshafts came back. I held my breath when I test fitted them. I hoped my calculations were right and I was right. It was a big sigh of relief. Here are a few pics to show the fitment.
Left, Honda shaft resplined. Right ae111 original shaft.



Passenger shaft test fitted.



a shot of the inner tripod bearings sitting comfortably inside the inner cv.



the ae111 outer cv joint mated with the Honda k20a shaft.



same with the drivers side



a shot of the drivers side inner tripod bearings. A bit closer to the edge than the passenger side, but nothing to worry about as this was with the suspension at full extended travel. Once the car is lowered onto the ground, it’ll sit in further.



and a pic of the drivers outer joint.



with both shafts fitted, you can now see the angle of the shafts. Very shallow, which will be good for less wear, less torque steer and hopefully less likely to break.



here is another shot of the angle of the shafts. As you can see, almost horizontal.



the shafts are now off to the sandblasters, and then a lick of paint to make them look like new.

I managed to pick up an ally rad for an ep3, twice the thickness of the oem rad. So better cooling for track days.

The ally rad dimensions are the same as the ae111 rad, just different inlet and outlet positions and also the mounting tabs.
So now time to tackle the mounting issue.



as you can see, one of the tabs didn’t align up with the oem rad brackets.



unlike Honda, Toyota didn’t weld the brackets onto the bottom slam panel. Just bolted in, all I had to do was unbolt it, move it across by 2 inches, and voila, job sorted.



my next task is the fuelling system. More updates to come.



So, time to get the fuelling sorted.
The ae111 4age runs a return fuel system, where as the ep3 k20a runs a return less fuel system, so a setup similar to the eg/dc/ek k20 swap fuel systems was needed.
I looked at the different types of fuel setups available and settled with the k-tuned one.
Obviously they didn’t have an off the shelf kit for my car/swap, so I had to figure out what I needed and ordered it.
Then it was a case of figuring out where to put it. Unlike most Hondas, the Toyota doesn’t have a flat firewall or shock tower. So mounting it proved to be tricky. Once I had devised a way of fitting it to the firewall, I drilled a hole, riv nutted a thread and then attached a bracket, once I mounted the FPR, I then attached the –AN fittings, measured the length of braided hose needed, cut and fitted the ends to the hoses. I’m just waiting on 1 more fitting, but otherwise, another job done!!

Before:



after



Since the beginning of this project, I’ve always wondered what the 2 engines weighed.
Would I be adding weight aswell as power to the front of the car, or would I be increasing power whilst gaining bhp/ton for free aswell?
So I purchased some 200kg scales from ebay and weighed both engines.
Here’s the results

4AGE: everything still bolted to the engine minus the exhaust manifold





it weighs in at 203kg.

K20A2 with exhaust manifold, but minus PAS. ALT and A/C Pump.





it weighs in at 200kg.
so all in all, both engines weigh pretty much the same. It would have been nice to shed a few kg’s for free, but I’m happy that I ain’t gaining any weight at the expense of the engine swap, especially over the front of the axle.

[levent]

Managed to get a little done to the car today.
With the cooling system now being a Honda setup, I didn’t want to keep the oem expansion bottle as it is your usual oddly shaped plastic run of the mill bottle, so I splashed out on a sleek stainless steel one.
Now all I got to do is fit it.

I wanted to mount it next to the rad infront of the alternator. So I had to fab up some custom mounts to attach to the rad.



and then attached them to the expansion bottle.



offer it upto the rad, and then weld it on.



done



progress has been slow, but I have managed to do a few things.
I pulled the engine back out to check on a few things before I hardwire the engine to the car.



I checked the clutch, and luckily I do so, as it was on its last legs. So I decided to fit an Exedy stage 2 3-puck clutch



That should withstand the abuse I plan on giving it once it come back onto the road.



The bulk of the work has been done, its just a case of dealing with the wiring and minor details.
None the less, i knuckled down and finished off one bit at a time.

Here’s the finished driveshafts. All cleaned and rebuilt ready to be abused. I wonder if they will snap???



Although I wanted to complete the swap to make sure all is 100% ok before I start modifying, I knew that the car will be destined to hit up some track days and the K20’s are known for spinning a bearing because of oil starvation due to high G’s in corners. I didn’t want this to happen on my first outing. So I decided to baffle my sump. Not content with paying for one, I decided to build my own.

After trawling the net for all types of baffled sump designs, (Toda, Mugen, Spoon, Z10, clockwise motion etc) looking at how each one is designed and how it prevents oil starvation, I didn’t settle on one design but I incorporated a few good bits from a few of the ones currently out there to come up with my own.

Here’s the result.

I took a sump of one of my spare k20’s (as you do), and sand blasted it inside and out to remove any corrosion, oil contamination and anything else that isn’t aluminium. This meant that it wouldn’t go pop and bang when welding on the baffles.



I then made cardboard templates to copy



Transferred them to a sheet of 2mm ally.



cut them all out and bent/shaped them to fit





once test fit complete, time to weld



viola !



before I welded the top baffle in, I wanted to check exactly where it needed to be seated. So I filled the sump with 4.5litres of water



plonked the top baffle on, marked it and got it welded on.



I haven’t taken a picture of the end product, but I’m sure you can see what it’ll look like.

I also found a home for my K-Pro. It’s in the stock location the original one was



so with the new clutch in and the engine finally back in, it was time to crack on with the wiring.



daunting



I’m 99% complete with the wiring loom. Many hours of tracing and continuity testing wires to complete the hybrid loom. The loom consists of the k20a engine loom, ae111 chassis loom, and the ep3 chassis loom and 4age engine loom spliced together to make a sub connecting loom.
To power and ground the new engine, I searched high and low for a nice looking power/ground distributor block, but nothing seemed ‘right’ for the job. Either too bling, or too ugly, or too awkward a shape, or just too plain expensive. so i drew up a connector block, went through various revisions and once i was happy with my design, i sent to off to get made. here's what i ended up with.



with power all hooked up and most of the necessary wiring complete. It was time for a systems check.

And like Dr Frankenstein said “IGOR, IT’S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!”

All sensors seem to be communicating with the ecu, and no major fault codes!!!!!!!

A massive sigh of relief.

Better still, most of the dash functions still work (eml, oil pressure warning etc), I’ve just got to start it to see if the tacho and speedo function. Fingers crossed.


I have finished other jobs like pas, booster vacuum, coolant hoses, throttle cable, shifter box, fit drive shafts, etc but didn’t take any pics nor was it worth a picture update.

Still got a/c and an exhaust manifold to tackle.

Hope you enjoyed the update, Watch this space.

---

Time for another update.
Alan managed to find time in his busy schedule to modify the oem manifold and fabricate a downpipe for temporary use. Once I know everything is all good, then I’ll start modifying.





whilst it was on the ramp, I decided to fit the baffled sump.





[IMG]To finish off some of the wiring, I had to plumb in 2 water temp sensors (oem and defi). I decided to fit it to the upper rad hose pipe.
It was a simple case of drilling and tapping threads.[/IMG]

once fitted to the engine, I also fitted my thermal tb gasket.
I will be fitting the i/m gasket when I get an rbc/rrc manifold.



unfortunately, I had to ditch the aircon. I really wanted to keep it, but due to the way Toyota designed the aircon electrical system, I cant get it to work without the original ecu and certain sensors which the Honda air con pump doesn’t have. Proper gutted.
Gonna have to sweat it out when the sun comes out.



managed to get some more work done this week.

Heat wrap came in the post, so I wrapped up the downpipe to stop it from cooking the steering rack, as it sits about 10mm away from it. Also refitted the upper heat shield.





spent the best part of 5 hours finalizing the wiring, finally managed to get the cooling fans working in unison. Seeing as I ditched a/c, I had to rewire the 2nd fan to kick in at the same time.

As I mentioned already, the car fired up on the first turn on the key. I’ve calibrated the k pro with a base map and no EML!!! Bonus.

I’ve yet to get the rpm and vss working though.

Built an air intake with a HKS superflow filter for the time being. Fuel system has been refitted and all plumbed in. fuel pressure set to 50psi.





due to ditching a/c, I’ve had to get another aux belt. It’s a case of trial and error to get the right length. So far I’ve tried 7pk1363 – too short, 7pk1388 – too long, waiting on 7pk1370 to be delivered.





I also managed to bleed the clutch (my god is the stage 2 Exedy HEAVY!!!) and plumb in all the cooling system. Gonna get some antifreeze this week and hope there’s no leaks.

that’s all for today.
Thanks for reading.

[levent]

Ok, update time. I’ve done a lot since my last update. But not got round to updating my thread.
Had minor issues with the rad, but got them sorted after some meddling. Welded on some rad stays too. The k20a is a pain to bleed, ended up having to jack the front of the vehicle up to remove all the air.
Other little jobs I got done:
Sprayed the engine mount brackets as they were still bare metal.
Received the correct aux belt. Ended up using a 7pk1375.
Fitted the I vtec cover, trd strut brace and also refitted the interior. Interestingly enough, the whole centre console fits over the dc5 shifter…..just.
Had to trim it a little, but otherwise, it was like it was made for it.
Also peeled the ‘JDM’ service stickers off the slam panel.
Filled the gearbox with Millers fully synthetic gearbox oil as it’ll be seeing track use in August.
SWAP 99% COMPLETE!!!!!!!!!

No pics of these small updates, but here’s a couple of pics of the ‘completed’ bay.





and then time for it’s first wash in 6 months.



The car starts and drives. All gears can be selected, no EML’s, exhaust doesn’t blow, cooling system doesn’t leak, no oil leaks. Happy days.

The clutch is immensely heavy, added to the on/off 3 puck clutch makes it unsocial to drive. Oh boy!!! Looks like I gotta live with it.

Last bit of the puzzle is to get the tacho and speedo working. With the help of Chris (purpleturbocivic/whiteford.davies), it’ll be working in no time. I can’t forsee him having any issues with it. It’ll be like childs play to him.

Drove it 66miles for its 1st road test, drove faultlessly. I was a bit nervous and paranoid about something going wrong, but all went well.
The 2L is really torquey, pulls real strong at 2-3k. definitely an improvement over the original 4age engine. I didn’t dare hit redline, as I didn’t wanna break down on my first drive. But I did hit vtec once!!!
It is the oddest sensation to vtec a Toyota. Gonna take some getting use to.


I plan to debut it at Endless Horizons Ace Café meet next week provided I do a couple other bits and bobs to it in time.


I’m happy with the end product…..for now. Gonna get some testing miles on it before I go to HEM3 and thrash the life out of it.

Thanks for following my build


--

Its been a long while since I last updated my thread, and I’ve done a bit with the car since then so I thought I’d share it.
From where I left off,

The 1st big test of the cars’ new superheart was a road trip / track day to northern France for the Honda Euro Meet #3.

I had 2 (sat and sun) half day track sessions booked along with 6 other cars. The drive there and back plus blasting around the track will be a massive test on the new setup aswell as the car as a whole and will highlight any weak areas that might need improving.

So on with the pics.

New upgrades along with the engine swap for HEM3 were a048 semi slick tyres, a Corbeau carbon kelvar bucket seat with a custom fixed base frame, Mugen pedals and a big ol’ tacho as my stock cluster wasn’t working yet.













The new found power makes the car so much more potent, each corner comes a lot faster than they did the previous year. That, plus the tyres make a huge difference to the amount of speed I was carrying into the corners. The handing remains unaffected, the balance feels like it was before the swap. As there was no weight penalty with this swap, the power to weight ratio makes the car much more enjoyable to drive. Toyota really should have put a 2L engine in it from factory.

As for power, the car has only had a road tune, so I have no idea how much power it makes. But after doing some rolling starts against a 240hp k20 dc2, and 235hp ep3’s, and being pretty much neck and neck against them, I’d say the car is in that ball park.


I did not plan to modify the car any time soon after the trackday, but a friend was selling an rbc with adaptor, so I snapped it up and proceeded to fit it along with my thermal gaskets.







issues I ran into when fitting was that the oem rad fan fouled the iacv, so I had to leave the fan off for now. Will replace it with a slimline one soon.
The top rad hose also fouled on the throttle body, so a quick cut and reweld was needed to get it to fit.





I’ve read all the blurb on what it is meant to do, but was still a bit sceptical, but after trying it, I can say with 100% confidence that it makes a huge difference in engine coolant temps.

Prior to adding the stuff, the car would cruise at 70-80mph with a water temp of 100-110 deg C, with the additive, at the same speed, the car is now running at 85-90 degrees C.

I also did some car maintenance and changed out the osf lower arm



after doing a road tune, the car feels much faster throughout the rev range, although a little bit of tq feels like it has been lost below 3000 rpm. I still need to get it on a dyno to finish tuning it.

At the end of September, I headed down to Shakespeare county raceway to see what it could do down the ¼ mile.

After an 8am start, a 120 mile journey, signing on, tech inspection, queuing up on the staging lanes, pull up onto the start line, preloaded the gearbox, lights go green, launched the car at about 3k, and…….. nothing, car didn’t move but the engine revved, at first I thought it popped out of gear, but after reselecting 1st, and nothing happening. I knew I broke something.



Upon further inspection, it was the nsf driveshaft that took a dump. Sad times.

Good news is I have a set of DSS 2.9 shafts being made so it’ll cope with what I have planned for it during the winter period.

New parts update.

Along with my order placed with DSS, I ordered some more parts from stateside aswell as the UK.
Here’s what I got.

DSS 2.9 shafts.



DSS vs oem modified ones, you can see the inner joint is much bigger than the oem one. It uses the same joint design as an outer joint has, eliminating the weakness of the oem tripod bearing type.



New rear ARB poly bushes



Rc injector clips



TRS tow strap as the original tow hook will be inaccessible once I’m done.



And a vertical intercooler core and end tanks to give the shafts a run for its money



continuing from my last post, I got the vertical core welded up with some end tanks.
The core is rated to 700hp.



I had to modify the bumper bar and bumper webbing to fit and also used the bumper bar as a mounting point.









the i/c and bumper bar were sprayed matt black for the stealth look. (forgot to takes pics)

due to the backdoor nature of the intercooler, and routing space being a premium, I had to modify the radiator. I had to remove 10 rad fins.



left exposed were 20 holes which needed covering, so a plate was welded over. No problems for alan@solidfab. He takes all these tricky jobs I present him in his stride.



all covered and welded up.



and here’s all the space I gained to route the piping through.



and a shot of the i/c piping being made with the turbo fitted.



for preparation of the incoming turbo, I modified my rbc to accept 1/8npt barbed fittings. An extra 5mm ally plate was welded in for extra material to tap in.





now you may have noticed some ally scaffolding hanging off the front of my car, this is because i’ve been reading a lot to do with aerodynamics, as after my last trackday, due to the engine swap meant my cornering entry speeds are higher, I feel I need more turn in speed aswell as front end grip for mid/high speed corners.

So to help with this, I’ve designed a front splitter and air dam using dimensions, which will maximise front-end downforce.

I will also be increasing tyre size from 195 to 225 on the front to help with mechanical grip for the low to mid speed corners.

So the splitter frame had to be bolted to the chassis, as it will see loads of 100kg+.





the splitter will be 5mm aluminium sheet, and the air dam 1mm aluminium sheet.

Its still work in progress, but I have high hopes for it. As the turbo will mean approaching corners even faster and I need the grip to get through them quicker.

haven't updated this site in a while, so here's a big update dump.

With the installation of the RC650 injectors and Walbro 255lph fuel pump, my fuel pressure started to fluctuate by 5-8psi and my fuel return line started to vibrate and make a ticking noise. After some diagnosing, I found it to be the fuel return, and that it was too small to cope with the flow rate of the new pump. Because of this, I had to up the size of it from 5.5mm ID to 8mm ID.

[levent]

To do this, I decided to go with -8AN fittings and black nylon braided hose, along with a 8mm aluminium pipe return inside the tank.



to fit it, I had to remove the stock oem fuel return





I had to drill a 14mm hole in place of the oem fuel return, fit a 90deg fitting with plastic washers.


the in tank return line was 8mm aluminium tube secured using an olive fitting.


done





the oem hardlines under the car were replaced with the -8AN nylon braid aswell as the fitting on the fpr.

Now my pressure sits at a steady 50psi with no noises or ticking from the fuel line.

Big update time

Although my engine only has 22,000 miles on it, for peace of mind, I fitted a new timing chain and tensioner ready for the turbo.





At the same time, I swapped out my baffled sump for a trap door baffled sump with a -12an oil return.







I also had to build a new oil return hose.



RC 650’s with new pigtails installed



because of the modification to the rad, the original cooling fans didn’t fit anymore, plus I wanted pusher fans to give me more room in the bay to work with.

So I purchased a pair of Ken Lowe pusher fans.
Cheap? Hell no!!. but they actually shift as much air as an oem fan, are smaller in dimension (10inch) and are really quiet.



They fit perfectly infront of the rad, and underneath the slam panel.



As for my turbo setup, most of it is custom, just like the rest of my car. But some of it is off the shelf.


Custom 2.5inch short boost piping, silicone couplings and t-bolt clamps.



rev hard turbo manifold, Tial 38mm wastegate. Custom 2.5inch downpipe and dumptube. I also built a manifold heatshield to keep the heat away from other components within the bay.



T3/TO4E Garrett/precision turbo.














It’s currently running 7psi off the wastegate spring. no idea the power output, but once I’ve put a few miles on it, I’ll be wiring up the MAC solenoid to utilise the kpro boost by gear. Then upping it to 12psi and having me some fun.

More updates to come, thick and fast. Got lots to do before Honda Euro Meet 4.


Ok, an aero update, after what seems an eternity making the front splitter, its finally done.

Here’s some pics of it.

Splitter cnc machined to shape, vertical air dam made from 1mm aluminium sheet.

[levent]

test fitted. The vertical dam was then trimmed to follow the lines of the lower lip.





also added more triangulation to the front scaffolding.



Because the track day is this weekend, I didn’t have any time to get the splitter sprayed by a bodyshop, so a rattle can had to do, So don’t mind the finish, It isn’t my best work and I’m not overly proud of rushing it.







After it was fitted, I took it for a drive down the m-ways, and even at 60-70mph, there is a substantial difference in the feel of the front of the car. Much more planted and direct. This will translate into a lot more front end grip/response when on track. No doubt as the speeds increase, so will its effectiveness.


Now, and update I’ve been looking forward to more than the turbo. My new brakes!!!!

They’ve been sitting in my garage for the past year and a half, and the only reason I’ve never fitted them is because I didn’t feel the car lacked in this department. (Stock is 275mm disc with twin pot calipers) Even after the k20 conversion, the brakes handled the extra power/speed fine.
But now with an extra 60-90hp up on the k20, I thought it’d be stupid not to change it now and see how they perform under track conditions.

My old current setup is stock discs, mintex 1144 pads up front, some JDM aftermarket pads at the rear, APP braided lines all round and fresh brake fluid every year.

Now the new setup consists of 305mmx28mm pillar vane discs (better heat dissipation than straight vane, couldn’t find curved vane in this size, otherwise I would have went with curved.) Ferodo ds2500 pads and custom hubcentric ring and bracket, 4 pot AP racing/Lotus calipers. (it’s the same caliper they use on the mclaren mp12-4c)

I’ll let the pics do the talking.
Take 1 pair of calipers














daily


track





I’m still in the bedding in phase, but from what little mileage I’ve done so far, these brakes feel immense. The pedal is much firmer, bite is increasing with every pedal application, there’s better modulation with these and once I get more miles on them I’ll do a windscreen face plant to test the full effect of my new upgrade.

Since completing the final touches to my bay, and then hitting up HEM4, I haven’t taken any proper pictures of it. But I found some pictures taken by some of the other photographers at the event. Thanks for the pics.

The final touches include painted cam cover, plug cover and strut brace to match the calipers. Beatrush cooling panel, blox velocity stack,filter and and pipework to suit. Also a big SOLID FAB decal to give him props for all his help in making it all possible.









--

Şimdilik bu kadar,

konu kasım 2011 de açılmış, son güncelleme aralık 2012 de

video vs bulursam ekleyeceğim buraya..

değişik bi proje olmuş, görmeye alışık olmadıklarımızdan.

2zz den çok daha mantıklı olmuş, beklediğimden daha az custom iş gerektirdiği ortaya çıktı bir de başka marka bir swapın

NWP4LIFE: toyota ae111 k20 swap

konusu da burada..

Edit :

corollaclubuk da henüz videosu olmadığını söyledi

[BERKİN]

Levent gece gece uykumu açtın teşekkürler

[bad cat]

levent sabah sabah canımı sıktın teşekkürler.

[skunk11]

Derin bir of çekmeme sebep oldu konu, teşekkürler

[ilkerrrrr]

Biz 4age bulamayiz adam 4ageyi soker k20 takar. Adaletin bu mu dunya

[ardacngns]

tebrik etmek lazım adam çiziyor edıyor uyguluyor helal olsun guzel bir proje olmuş

[kanashibari]

Doğru yolu bulmuş Daha güçlü daha hafif.

[olcayozduman]

harika calışma cok emek vermıs bıde vıdeo izleseydık fena olmazdı

[sinanbaysal]

Cok sexi yaa Cok guzel proje olmus gercekten

[Bulut Y.]

ağzımın suları aktı ya resmennn

[Chn53]

fotolar uçmuş

[onursumer]

bandwidth yetersiz gelmiş resimleri başka yere upload etseniz çok güzel olur